| 4 United Nations 1992 5 Suzanne Lee 2005 p68 6 D. Hepworth 2004, published in Suzanne Lee 2005 p65 7 twenty1Fashion, by email newsletter, 21 maart 2007 |
•textile example: Biotech for
textile production [<<]
Textile produced out natural sources. The first biotechnological material is Viscose, made form wood- but produced with artificial technological processes. ‘Biotechnology means any technological application that uses biological systems, living organisms, or derivatives thereof, to make or modify products or processes for specific use.’4 The American government invested much in textile research and development.1945_NASA_FF15.jpg This includes both- synthetics and natural materials. Since the 1950’s, for economical reasons, interest in textile innovation shifted to synthetics as future textiles. Because of the climate and environmental issues, materials are reconsidered. The production of synthetics is nature friendly, but hardly biodegrades. That’s why biotechnology is re-discovered. Martin Margiela experimented with bacteria just for the looks,1997_MartinMargiela_FF72.jpg and Manel Torres experiments with chemicals and biomaterials to find new textiles.2004_ManelTorres_FF27.jpg Tobie Kerridge & Nikki Stott (industrial design, Central St Martin) let rings grow out of human teeth.2004_TobieKerridge&NikkiStott_FF66 This created lots of commotion even for the Tissue Culture experiments from bio-artists Oron Catts and Ionat Zurr.2004_OronCatts&IonatZurr_FF69.jpg They made a miniature coat of Victimless Leather grown from cultured cells. ‘The artist intentions are to confront people with the moral implications of wearing parts of dead animals for protective and aesthetic reasons and to raise the possibility of wearing ‘leather’ without killing an animal.’5 Suzanne Lee experimented with cellulose.2006_SuzanneLee_FleshingOut.jpg She created a garment grown out of cellulose. This would biodegrade completely. ‘Nature can grow things for us to make exactly what we want with no waste.’6 [A previous project about the no-waste culture of intuits: GRIP] The latest experiment is also intended to provoke some discussion about future fashion products. Bacteria turn wine into vinegar, and then produce cellulose. They lifted the layers of slimy cellulose off and laid them over an inflatable doll. After each dress was complete, they deflated the doll and removed it, leaving the dress intact. ‘It’s the bacteria that are weaving all these fibers together,’ says Gary Cass. ‘We’re not using any machines, sewing machines and so forth.’7 This is a new production process as well as a new textile, and subsequently is not on the commercial market yet, but it won’t take to long before people are wearing cellulose skirts or eating victimless meat. The methods are already in place. All that is needed now is a public willing to buy. |
8 Bradley Quinn 2002 p164 |
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